Charonne is a historic village absorbed into Paris during the 19th-century annexation of 1860, now forming a quiet residential pocket within the 20th arrondissement. The quarter retains its pre-Haussmann street plan, with the ancient church of Saint-Germain-de-Charonne and its rare churchyard still anchoring the neighborhood’s identity. Bordered by the 11th arrondissement to the west and the Père-Lachaise cemetery to the north, Charonne offers a pace distinct from central Paris.
What is Charonne known for?
Charonne is known above all for preserving the physical layout and community feel of a pre-revolutionary village within the city, centered on the place Saint-Blaise and the church of Saint-Germain-de-Charonne, one of only two Paris parish churches that still has an adjacent burial ground. The surrounding lanes, including rue Saint-Blaise, are lined with low stone buildings, independent shops, and terraced cafés that attract locals rather than tourist crowds. The area also has a strong association with natural wine culture, with several well-regarded wine bars and bistros concentrated along rue de Bagnolet and its side streets.
Best things to do in Charonne
The single most rewarding activity in Charonne is a slow walk through the old village core, starting at the Église Saint-Germain-de-Charonne on place Saint-Blaise, examining its 13th-century origins and intact churchyard, then continuing along rue Saint-Blaise toward the Villa Godin and the rue des Balkans. Other worthwhile activities include:
- Visiting the Parc de Belleville for panoramic views over western Paris, accessible on foot from upper Charonne streets
- Browsing the weekend market along boulevard de Charonne
- Exploring the street art concentrated near the Oberkampf and Alexandre Dumas metro corridors on the neighborhood’s western edge
- Tasting natural wines at one of the cave-à-manger wine bars on rue de Bagnolet
Where to eat and drink in Charonne
Rue de Bagnolet and the streets between place de la Réunion and the boulevard de Charonne form the core dining corridor, offering a mix of traditional French bistros, natural wine bars, and casual neighborhood restaurants serving market-driven menus. The area is particularly strong for convivial, unpretentious dining where reservations are advisable on weekday evenings. Look for small plates and seasonal French cooking typical of the contemporary Paris bistronomie movement, with several addresses noted for good-value lunch formules.
Where to walk in Charonne
The most rewarding walk in Charonne follows rue Saint-Blaise from place Saint-Blaise westward, branching onto the villa Godin and rue des Balkans to see intact 19th-century artisan housing before connecting to the boulevard de Charonne and the covered Marché de la Réunion at place de la Réunion. A second route heads north from the Charonne metro station along rue de Bagnolet, passing the small Jardin Naturel on rue de la Réunion and continuing to the Père-Lachaise cemetery’s southern entrances on boulevard de Ménilmontant.
How to get to Charonne
The most direct metro access to the heart of Charonne is Line 9 at Charonne station or Alexandre Dumas station, both placing visitors within a five-minute walk of the historic village core and rue de Bagnolet. Line 2 stops at Philippe Auguste, giving access from central Paris and the Opéra direction, while Line 9 connects westward to République and the Right Bank. Bus lines 56 and 76 run along boulevard de Charonne and rue de Bagnolet respectively, and the neighborhood is about 25 minutes by foot from Place de la Bastille.
Best time to visit Charonne
Charonne is most rewarding on weekday mornings and weekend afternoons when the local market, café terraces, and churchyard are active but not overcrowded, and the residential streets reflect genuine daily Parisian life rather than tourist patterns. Spring and early autumn bring the best conditions for walking the outdoor lanes comfortably, and the annual Journées du Patrimoine in September offers special access to the Saint-Germain-de-Charonne church interiors. Summer evenings see the wine bar terraces on rue de Bagnolet fill with neighborhood regulars.
